Hakkasan, high-end Chinese at it's best

This past New Year’s Eve, Sheila and I decided to try Hakkasan, the London-based high class Chinese restaurant from the same group as Wagamama. Their global “chain” of restaurants are located in New York, Dubai, Mumbai, Miami, and now San Francisco. Located at the corner of Market and Kearny on the second floor of this wedge-shaped building; the design is over the top and reportedly cost $7 million! You turn the corner from the elevator to a hosting station, which leads into a 1920’s Shanghai. Beautifully ornate design, gorgeous booth spaces, and some private dining rooms; but what impressed me the most was the stunning cobalt-blue bar gently lit and wrapped around the center to mirror the building contours.

The menu selection is vast, Chinese and Cantonese cuisine prepared elevated to match to this high-end establishment. This is not your Chinatown back alley joint to say the least. We made reservations through Open Table and had informed the wait staff that we were vegetarian. Our waiter having known this helped to craft a great selection of starters, mains, and desserts that was memorable.

Vegetarian Dim Sum - morel crystal dumpling, bamboo dumpling,
bean curd lotus roll, chive flower dumpling. A healthy portion of two each of the above list, the dim sum was expertly delicate and flavorful. Sheila enjoyed the bean curd one and I preferred the chive flower one. The most unique option was bamboo, which had a light earthy flavor. The variety was quite good and it was nice to see vegetarian options for this typical meat dish. This was definitely worth ordering as a starter.

Lettuce Wraps – stir-fry mushroom lettuce wraps with pistachios and pine nuts. This dish was surprisingly filing. Traditionally lettuce wraps can be messy, these were not. The filling was cut into bite-size pieces not drenched with sauce; and each lettuce was formed into easy to eat cups. The mushrooms were prepared well and the nuts added a great crunchy texture. This would be a great appetizer to share if you’re in for drinks.

Clay Pot Tofu – tofu, aubergine, and shiitaki mushrooms in a chili black bean sauce.  This was our least favorite dish of the evening. We felt that the pieces were too large, which gave them a slimy texture. We ended up cutting them down on our own plates. It’s not that the veggies and tofu weren’t flavorful or that the black bean sauce wasn’t spicy enough. However in comparison to the other this lacked the right balance.

 

Vegetarian Chicken – stir-fry vegetarian chicken in black pepper sauce. This was my favorite dish of the night. The sweet and spicy glaze was really good; hints of orange citrus provided a refreshing undertone for this elevated dish. Hakkasan’s take on mock chicken is once of the best we’ve had and is on most certainly on par with Loving Hut. For the main course, the portion size was bit small, definitely could have used some more as we both wiped the plate clean.

Chocolate Orange Mousse – chocolate hollow ball with candied blood orange chips with hot cocoa sauce poured over the top and gianduja (hazelnut paste) ice cream. A beautiful looking dessert that tasted decadent without becoming overly rich. The bitterness from the chocolate, the sweetness from the hazelnut, the citrus from the blood orange, and the crunch from the cocoa nibs worked amazingly well together. Our waiter recommended this dish; and it didn’t disappoint. Let that be a lesson to always ask from their views. 

All in all, Hakkasan is a destination restaurant with impressive Cantonese food. The service was attentive and excellent. At every turn the wait staff would refill water, re-fold napkins, and take away plates.. This made the experience even better. The food was modern and creative. There’s no doubt that the owner wanted you to experience being transformed into a world of Asian decadence. Our bill came to $140 with a few of drinks and tip. Not bad in a city of uber-pricy joints. This is a special occasion place and we certainly enjoyed it.

torchy's tacos, the epitome of austin's food scene

Austin's food truck & stall scene is legendary. There are vacant lots turned into beer gardens and outdoor music venues that have several airstream-style food stalls severing up some of the best food in Austin. One such place is South First Street, a block west of famed South Congress. We were tipped off to Torchy's Tacos by friends who have frequented it a few times and said their veggie options were amazing. They have a few outposts throughout the city including brick & mortar locations, but we decided on the one closest to our hotel in a trailer park.

Of the four or five stalls in this converted lot, Torchy's Tacos was the most popular with a line about 15 deep at 11:45am on Sunday. A real mixed crowd as well, which gives this city it's soul - a graduation party, young well-to-do families, a few tourists, hipster musicians, and uber cyclists. Prices are per small soft taco at about $4.00 each. We decided to try two different tacos (The Independent and Fried Avocado) and an order of chips & salsa. 

The Independent - fried poblano mushroom strips, refried black beans, roasted corn, escabeche carrots, queso fresco, cilantro, avocado with ancho aioli served on warm corn tortillas. This was our favorite, especially the ancho aioli sauce that packed a punch. We could have eaten several; a great elevated taco. The corn and carrots were slighted sweet so there was really nice balance of natural sweetness from the veggies, heat from the aioli, saltiness from the queso. I really enjoyed the combination, not something you would find a traditional taco. This elevated taco with earthy flavors was totally unexpected from a food stall. We're definitely fans.

Fried Avocado - fresh avocado chunks fried, pico, lettuce, cheese with poblano sauce served on warm corn tortillas. Somewhat like a traditional taco because of the pico, lettuce, cheese toppings, but with the twist of fried avocados. Considering Sheila is not a huge avocado fan, she would have preferred a thinner slice of avocado. I would tend to agree as the avocado ratio was a bit high. However, that was our only negative. The pablano sauce had really nice heat and creaminess. The corn tortillas (double layer) were light and airy. The veggies were wonderfully fresh. We both recommend trying it.

Chips & Salsa - homemade corn tortilla chips and fresh roja salsa of fire-roasted roma tomatoes, chilies, grilled onions, garlic, cilantro, and poquito lime. A fairly mild salsa, these were definitely addictive. The chips were fresh, very, very lightly salted and more salsa than we could have wanted. Despite Sheila complaining about having chips all week (she'd been there for the week), she had her fair share. 

Torchy's Tacos is the epitome of Austin's food scene, expertly prepared and inventive food with fresh ingredients served from a food stall at dirt cheap prices. Basically quality food for the masses! Don't make the trip to Austin without trying Torchy's, you'll be craving it for weeks afterwards. 

Uchiko, a culinary experience in Austin

Paul Qui fame skyrocketed with winning Top Chef Texas last year. He was the Executive Chef of elevated hot-spot Uchiko in Austin, which serves is some of the most amazing food we’ve ever had. The hype is real.

Located in North Austin, the cars in the parking lot, entrance area, and modern storefront resembles a swanky Hollywood bar rather than a farm to table Japanese restaurant. Nevertheless entering through the door, you’re transformed into haven of dark woods, warm Edison bulbs, red brick accents, and metal/glass enclosures. The noise level was quite high, but we were seated towards the back in a large booth overlooking the open kitchen. Our waiter graciously helped up navigate through the menu and recommended several of our dishes after we told him we were vegetarian. All dishes were family style, so we decided on a mixed of five.

Shishito Yaki - Spicy grilled shishito peppers with sriracha dipping sauce. Packed with heated on both levels (peppers and sauce), this was a great sinus-clearing starter. The peppers were wonderfully grilled in their natural state, meaning no seasoning. The sauce was flavored well, but was a bit too hot for my taste. We were actually surprised at the quantity, could have served a table of four so just keep that in mind.

Brussels Sprouts - Crispy brussels sprouts with lemon chili. The best brussels sprouts that we’ve eaten in our entire life! Came to the table warm and fragrant; this dish had an Asian flair to it. This was probably due to the lemon chili, which was perfectly balanced with sourness and heat. The brussels sprouts were quick fried and still retained their earthy quality. I recommend that everyone who visits Uchiko order this dish.

Yokai - Golden beet, myoga, rice, and avocado wrapped in soy paper. Essentially sushi rolls, this dish was on the menu with salmon, but the waiter was able to make it vegetarian. We didn’t really know what to expect, but were pleasantly surprised. The beets and myoga were served warm with the cool rice and avocado; all the ingredients were fresh and balanced. Overall this was a great dish, but not unique, given that in SF we have similar vegetarian sushi options.

Diachi - Sunchokes with crosnes, turmeric, and brown butter. Sheila felt the dish was prepared very well with complex flavors. However her first bite was sandy/grainy, because one of the sunchokes was not washed. I felt the dish tasted like it should have with the crosnes (Chinese artichokes) providing the crunchy elment, and turmeric & brown butter providing savory elements. We ordered this off the daily menu, so no guarantee it’ll be around next time,

Fried Milk - Three ways with chocolate milk, toasted milk, and iced milk sherbet. As our waiter noted, this is the most popular dish on the menu. We enjoyed parts of it, but collectively there was too much going on. The chocolate milk was prepared as powered sprinkling along the plate bottom. I have to admit it was a bit chalky. The toasted milk was coated in corn flakes then fried. This part tasted a bit bland. The ice milk sherbet was quite good, rich and creamy with being overly sweet.

Uchiko was memorable. Think about it, this is a modern farm to table Japanese restaurant in the middle of Texas. It’s quite the scene with a very long wait list. I’m giving it a 8.5 and a most go for any trip to Austin. 

Pierre Lafond, Modern Californian Cuisine in Old Santa Barbara

Located in the heart of Old Santa Barbara on State Street, Pierre Lafond Wine Bistro is a Modern Californian restaurant and wine bar that serves up inventive dishes with a large list of vegetarian options. The dishes are seasonal and veggies locally grown, something that us Cali folk have come to expect. Sheila and I went there the day after Thanksgiving for dinner and it did not disappoint. We decided early on to opt for two mains and dessert along with a wine pairing thinking this would be enough. It turned out to be way too much food, but that meant we had great leftovers for the next day!

Quinoa and sprouted mung bean salad with roasted corn, kale, grape tomatoes, red onion, and avocado in a lemon vinaigrette - A warm salad which was surprisingly balanced and very tasty. The braised kale and quinoa made this a very hearty dish. The avocado added some butteriness to the dish and helped cut the acidity from the dressing. Sheila felt that the avocado was a bit much, but to each their own. The roasted corn was very good, sweet and plump with just the right amount of charred smokiness. At $18, this was meant to be a main course. We ended up splitting it, but still a bit pricey for a "salad". Although I would order this again, Sheila begged to differ. She felt that the quinoa and mung beans got lost with the bold corn, kale, and avocado flavors.

Pumpkin and root vegetable risotto with curried carrot jus - So we continued the hearty veggie these with this dish. Cooked al dente with a subtle curry flavor, this dish hit the spot on a cold night as it was served piping hot. It goes without saying, but the root vegetables provided a nice earthiness and similar heartiness. The carrot jus cooked with curry spices provided subtle heat and had  a slightly Moroccan bend. The pumpkin, purple cauliflower, potatoes, and squash maintained their flavors as the dish was equally good the next day eaten cold. This also was a main we shared and at $22 it certainly was not inexpensive. In the end, we both agreed that we should have just ordered this one dish to share.

Pumpkin bread pudding with cinnamon ice cream - We asked our waitress for a dessert recommendation and she instinctively said to get the bread pudding that night. I appreciated the fact that she also told us that many patrons had been sending back the sea salt chocolate tort because it was too salty. So the pudding came out warm with a dollop of cinnamon ice cream atop and butterscotch sauce neatly placed adjacent. The dessert was rich and decadent, but not bursting with sweetness. The pumpkin bread pudding was just the right size to share and the right warmth. The ice cream did not overpower; it was more cinnamon-infused. This was a recipe we should have asked the chef for, it was that good.

Both Sheila and I would go back to try some of their other dishes. I give it a strong 8 out of 10. However it is rather expensive, so expect to spend approx. $90 (w/ tax and tip) for two. It's worth it though.

Farina Pizza in the Mission...

In an already crowded restaurant scene, Farina Pizza opened it's doors at the corner of Valencia & 18th. Yes, this puts is within walking distance of five other venerable spots - Pizzeria Delfina, Beretta, Arnell's, Little Star, and Mozzeria.  So what differentiates Farina from the others - the Italian imports, literally - from the ingredients and countertops, to the gas oven and chefs. Farina prides itself on replicating the authentic neapolitan experience, which is rare in a era when SF restaurant have touted the concept of farm to table, organic, and sustainable.

One recent Tuesday evening, Sheila and I decided to spontaneously visit this beautifully designed spot of clean white subway tiles, carrera marble counters, harvest wood tables, stainless steel fixtures, and artisan glass.  We arrived around 6:30pm and had the option of sitting at a communal table or the bar. We decided on the bar which overlooks the pizza prep station and oven. Good thing we got there early, because within 30 mins the place was packed and there was a  pretty long wait list. Needless to say, they don't take reservations.

The menu combines several fresh salads, pizzas, and pastas - made in the traditional Italian style with imported produce.  We went straight for the pizza with each of us ordering our own (margherita and ortolana)

The margherita pizza (San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte mozzarella, romano cheese, olive oil, basil)  was served piping hot from the gas oven as it should be; we actually watched the entire preparation from our  seats. The crust was slighted charred and not too salty. It had a great chewy factor (glutenous) which we've found to be a hallmark of neapolitan pies. The fior di latte mozzarella was silky smooth and wonderfully delicious. Sheila found the pizza to also have a nice cheese to tomato ratio. She would rate the magherita as better than Zero Zero and equally on par with Keste and Co in NYC. However, she prefers Delfina's crust. Although there something to be said about Farina's ambience and overall experience. 

Ortolana pizza (fior di latte mozzarella, eggplant, mushrooms, and bell peppers) - Similar to the magherita this crust was chewy. I thought it lacked a bit of seasoning, but nevertheless had a good balance of char and gluten. The eggplants, mushrooms, and bell pepper had been roasted with olive oil, but yet retained their earthy flavors. I agree with Sheila's assessment of the fior di latte mozzarella, one of the best I've ever had. The only thing missing for me was some sauce, after a while the pizza started to dry out. Overall good balanced flavors, but I'll try a different pie next time.

All in all, cool new hot spot in the Mission. This gives us another traditional neapolitan pizza place to add to our list. And at $15 per pie, the price point is on par with the others listed above. If you want the closest thing to classic Italian pizza, go to Farina. It's worth checking out. 

Gather in Berkeley...

We've been wanting to visit Gather in Berkeley for several months now after seeing the rave reviews on Check Please and then hearing that half their menu is always vegetarian! Here's an excerpt from their website - "A place where you can find seasonal food, carefully sourced and thoughtfully prepared to appeal equally to vegetarians and omnivores ... the feeling of a restaurant created from beautiful reclaimed wood and natural materials." 

Over this past Labor Day weekend, we made the trip over the Bay Bridge for a brunch at this much talked about spot. The restaurant is bright and airy, given it's prime corner location across from the campus entrance. It's also beautifully decorated with reclaimed wood tables, banquettes made from old leather belts, and herb plants hanging from the ceiling.  

The brunch menu has a combination of both savory and sweet items, including a number of vegan dishes. Sheila ordered the Acme walnut french toast with roasted plums and creme fraiche. I went for corn pancakes with maple braised strawberry compote and mascarpone. We also decided to share the yukon gold potatoes. 

Sheila's french toast - They serve it either with one or two slices. Sheila decided on one ($8). Although the portion size was right, it was too sweet and there was nothing to really balance the flavors. Even though the walnuts added texture, it actually made the dish heavier. On it's own, the plum compote was delicious, but combined with the syrup and french toast it was overwhelmingly sweet. Sheila summed it up by saying it was: "good, but I've had better." 

Adam's corn pancakes - The standard serving comes with two medium-size pancakes ($12). The corn batter was light and fluffy. Each pancake was perfectly cooked through and on it's own was really flavorful. The mascarpone gave it a good balance of savory and sweet. My biggest gripe was with the strawberry compote. Initially tart, each subsequent taste turned increasingly sweet, perhaps due to the maple braising. I would have preferred fresh strawberries or a strawberry infused mascarpone; rather than the heavy handedness of my compote. Good concept, not executed to my taste buds though. 

The yukon potatoes - It was our only savory dish ($5). It was very well seasoned, slightly spicy flavors, and came to the table piping hot. Everything you would expected in a good side of potatoes. The serving portion was great to share; Sheila and I found ourselves reaching for the wedges quite often to counter our overly sweet main dishes. Instead of ketchup, the potatoes were served with a cold tomato chutney, which had a bit too much vinegar. We both understood the intent, but would have just preferred some Heinz.  

All in all, the concept of Gather's dishes is good, but they were too sweet for our taste. I'd be curious to see how they handle the savory dinner dishes. Perhaps we'll give Gather another try for dinner in the future.  

Cotogna, worthy of a James Beard award!

In a crowded SF food scene, Cotogna definitely has star power. It's to be expected with Chef Michael Tusk having recently snagged a James Beard Award for Best New Chef - Pacific Northwest. We decided on a late Saturday lunch/early dinner in order to secure a reservation. But since it was the weekend, we didn't get the opportunity to try three-course pre-fix menu. However despite that, we'd say it's very well deserved of the accolades received.

Tucked away behind the FiDi and adjacent to North Beach, historic Jackson Square is a quaint neighborhood with it's collection of late 1800/early 1900 brick buildings now home to art galleries, interior design studios, and specialty furniture shops. So you wouldn't expect a restaurant the quality of Cotogna (sister to Quince) around here, especially in such close proximity to North Beach. But trust us, Cotogna is the real deal. It's rustic Italian gem with a organic sustainable menu that changes daily and a lively, yet inviting venue.

As is typically the case, we shared an appetizer, had our own mains, and then shared a dessert. First up was Cotogna's homemade bread (available upon request). Focaccia drizzled with olive oil, red chili flakes, sea salt, fennel, and dried oregano - served on a dark wood slab. A wonderfully earthy thin loaf that was light and airy; the addition of chili and fennel, gave it a faint kick which went really well with our cocktail drinks.

Then came our purslane, cucumber, cherry tomato, and feta salad. I know I alway say this, but SF restaurants always get their hands on the freshest, ripe fruits and veggie around. Purslane, although considered a weed in the US, is a leafy micro-green typically served in Southern Europe on salads. Never had it before, but really enjoyed the texture and taste. The cherry tomatoes and cucumbers were extremely juicy and crispy, respectively. I'm typically not a fan of feta because it can overpower a dish. However, this salad was very well balanced due to the tartness from the balsamtic vinaigrette dressing.


Next I had the eggplant tortelloni with smoked ricotta and basil pesto. Seven delicately placed stuffed pastas came on a large Heath ceramic bowl with a layer of genovese basil on the bottom and smoked ricotta nibbles on top. To my pleasant surprise, the pureed and lightly seasoned eggplant did not consume the entire entire. They were a bit sweet, but that was balanced well by the salty basil pesto. The smokiness of the ricotta really came through in an unexpected way; providing another layer of beautiful earthy flavors. Even Sheila, who doesn't eat eggplant, really enjoyed the complex flavors of this simply prepared dish. I would order this again and again, but with a daily changing menu this may be my only chance.

Sheila went for the genovese basil, fior di latta mozzarella, and sun gold tomatoes pizza. Head scratcher, right? I'm the one who always orders pizza, but this afternoon the ingredients were speaking to her. Needless to say, this was a great choice. The beautifully charred crust, amazingly fresh tomatoes and red onions, and smooth/rich mozzarella made this a winning dish. Not overly cheesy, you taste the juiciness of the tomatoes, earthiness of the basil, and sweetness of the red onions with ever bite. Yes we eat a lot of pizza, but this one was different. Why, you ask? It's all about the chewy inside crust and bubbly outer crust, which is a sign of great gluten development. And because of this the taste remained awesome even after the pizza got cold on our table; something that I can't say for Delfina or Gialina. Actually the pizza reminded us of Keste's in New York!


Last up was the cheesecake with hazelnuts and blueberries. Another delicately prepared dish with a crumbled butter cookie based, light and airy ricotta cheese, and whole & macerated blueberries. In a word - decadent. It was not overly sweet, in fact the blueberries added a hint of tartness to this dish. The crumble crust kept things from getting too dense. And the roasted hazelnuts (whole and chopped) scattered around the cheesecake added to the depth of flavors. I really nice way to end our meal.

Cotogna is a destination restaurant I recommend going to. The exquisitely prepared dishes capitalize on the array of fresh, organic, and sustainable ingredients available in the SF Bay Area. They do rustic Italian right!