keste's pizza nyc felt much like sf

Yes, I am a pizza snob. Let me re-phrase, I am a pizza monster. Wait, perhaps pizza obsessed. SF is a great city to live in for this craving - as you've picked up on from previous blogs. With recent trips to NYC, the opportunities to eat pizza have now increased! Backing up for a minute, I've noticed that SF prepares high-end (bordering on pretentious) pizzas made with the freshest of ingredients and cooked in wood burning showpiece ovens. NYC (also using fresh ingredients) prepares no frills, simple pizzas in a old-world Napoli and Roma kind of way. So how to compare? For me, it's about appreciating the differences - or so I thought.

This past May, Sheila and I hit up NYC and, of course, ate our way through Manhattan. On a Sunday afternoon, we ventured onto Bleecker St in the West Village for a meal at Keste, on the top 10 NYC pizza list of several publications. We were promptly seated by the hostess halfway down this narrow restaurant. The ambience was relaxed and the decor was modern Italian with old world Italian accents in the photos and accessories. The menu had a great selection of vegetarian salads, pizzas, and desserts. In the end we decided to share a meal since the days prior consisted of lots of heavy meals.

First up was the Toscana salad - spring mix, fresh pear, walnuts, lemon, and evoo. There were a burst of flavors from the pear and citrus infused evoo, but it was balanced by the nutty walnuts. The portion was large enough for us to share, but I suspect that must people would order it as a single portion. My only negative comment was that the pear ratio was rather low. By the time we were at the bottom, the only things left were greens and walnuts.

Next up was the Regina Margherita pizza - tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, basil, and a sprinkle of evoo. The cheese was melt in your mouth soft, the crust was crispy on edges and chewy on the inside, the cherry tomatoes added subtle sweetness. The drizzled evoo came through with each bite and provided a smooth finish. Just like everyone claims, included the cast of Entourage, the secret to the dough (and taste) is in the water. Suffice to say I could a have eaten the entire pizza by myself. My recommendation, go with a groups of friends and order several to share, oh and invite me!

Last up was the tiramisu - it's appearance was much more like espresso and rum whipped cream because we couldn't see the lady fingers. Taste-wise, the tiramisu was light and not overly sweet. In fact it was slightly bitter if you didn't combine it with the cream topping. No deep rum tones (a good thing), which can be the case with tiramisu gone wrong. I'd say order this if you're looking for an out of the ordinary tiramisu.

Final thoughts - Keste, in ambiance and pizza style, reminded me more of SF than of NYC. Alas, it will never to confused with Gramaldi's or Lombardi's. I did enjoy the simplicity of each dish and the perfectly cooked pizza (oh the amazing crust). However, next time we'll try a slice house to eat the way that New Yorkers enjoy - folded in half, eaten from below, hanging off a paper plate, standing on the sidewalk. I'm hungry, can't wait go back to NYC!

betelnut, an attempt at asian street fare

Located on Union Street in Cow Hollow, Betelut serves up Southeast Asian street fare. We’ve passed by it over the years, but never found the right time go. So this past week for our anniversary, we decided make reservations for dinner. Parking proved to be a challenge (expected in this neighborhood), but we found a spot several blocks west passed main Union Street drag. Upon arriving we were greeted warmly by the hostess, who after finding out we were vegetarian promptly recommended several dishes. She also noted that all of their noodle dishes could be made vegetarian; good to know.

The interior of Betelnut has a very 1930s Shanghai with deep red walls, Chinese tapestries, colonial ceiling fans, pagoda lanterns, and dark woods. There is a large open plan kitchen flanked a long bar area where patrons can also eat. Also out front is a lounge with its own separate bar area. Done tastefully, Betelnut doesn’t feel as kitschy as PF Chang’s. However, Both Sheila and I commented at how casual the place felt, which you can’t really tell from street side. The menu consists of small starters (dumplings, skewers, spring rolls, lettuce wraps, short ribs); mains (fish, steak, chicken dishes); noodles/bowls (mee goreng, curries, beef dishes); and sides (veggies, rice). All are prepared with distinctive Southeast Asian spices/ingredients – ginger, garlic, Szechuan chilies, kefir lime, peanut sauce, Thai basil, coconut, and scallions.

We opted for two starters (Happy Buddha Dumplings and Roti Prata), one main (Indonesian Mee Goreng), one side (Szechuan Green Beans), and one dessert (mochi three ways). Service was extremely quick with each dish being served within minutes of each other; almost felt like we didn’t have enough time to savor the food before the next one came out.

The dumplings were filled with tofu, shallots and pea tendrils on top. They were extremely moist, light, and were served with a soy vinaigrette sauce. The balance of flavors made it the perfect starting point for our meal. We both agreed that this was the best dish of the evening. One serving (total of five) is enough for two to share. I recommend ordering this.

The roti prata, pan-fried flat bread, was served with an Indonesian curry and cucumber raita. Although flaky, the roti was a bit too oily and not as soft as it should be. Having been to Bali several years ago and having eaten the original, we have some lofty standards. In addition, when compared to Straits Café (in Palo Alto), the version at Betelnut falls short. The portion size was fine since we had another starter. However on its own, this would not have been enough.

The mee goreng was made with flat noodles, green beans, shallots, tomatoes, and Szechuan chilies. Unfortunately, it had virtually no sauce and thus no real flavor (except if you accidently at the chilies). Expecting to find a punch of spices, we were wondering if this was mee goreng. Again, we’ve had this dish in both Bali and at Straits Café; this was an Americanized version that didn’t hit the mark.

The green beans (ordered as a side) were a huge portion. The garlic flavors overwhelmed the entire dish. My first thought was that we were at a Giants game and someone swapped the fries with green beans. Because of the use of soy sauce, I felt the dish was also too salty and kept having to drink water throughout the meal. Sheila commented that this is an easy make at home dish – with spice and ingredient control could be a real winner.

The mochi balls, Japanese rice cakes, were served three ways in a beautiful presentation: white chocolate with lemon curd; mike chocolate with coffee mouse; and dark chocolate with deconstructed strawberry shortcake. We started light to dark but felt that the outer cakes were too dense – filling to cake ratio was off – not enough chocolate and too much mochi. The accompanying sauces were decadent though – curd provided a nice tart flavor, the coffee mouse was rich and creamy, and the strawberries were sweet (to balance the dark chocolate).

I have to say that Betelnut was underwhelming. We both had high expectations and were left thinking this was merely an elevated PF Chang’s. Coincidently, I lot of yelp and google reviewers have these same sentiments. My vote is for Straits Café.

a french (toast) bistro vibe in cole valley...

In a brunch-happy community, Zazie has long stood out as one of the city's best. Located in Cole Valley, this quaint french bistro puts out some amazing cuisine. Sheila and I have now been to Zazie on three different occasions, all for brunch. This last visit was over Memorial Day weekend with our friends M&C from London. The yelp reviews that state a 45-60 min wait are no exaggeration. After putting our names down, we ended up walking up the street to a local coffee house for a caffeine shot. After standing over a group of young ladies finishing their meal, C and I were eventually able to snag a sidewalk table (first come, first serve) instead of waiting for indoor or back patio seating. Side note: the back garden patio has an amazing ambiance amongst lush foliage (especially on a warm day), feels like you're having an intimate meal in your own backyard!

The brunch menu is a combination of salads (veggie and seafood), savory sandwiches, breakfast egg and meat plates, and pancakes/french toasts. They also have a great selection of champagne mixers (w/ orange, pomegranate, cranberry, mango, or peach juice). It was hard to gauge the wait service as we were immersed in conversation with our great friends, whom we hadn't seen in a year! Overall I would say the service was okay.

Sheila ordered the challah french toast with orange cinnamon butter and topped with fresh fruit. The dish came off very light and not too eggy. The fruits were pineapples, strawberries, bananas, honeydew, and cantaloupe. However Sheila felt that melons would have been better suited as a side accompaniment rather than being on top of the toast. Side note; you can order 1, 2, or 3 pieces which makes it portion control easier. Overall Sheila was happy with the dish. This being the third time she's ordered it.

I ordered the tahiti french toast with walnut cream and caramelized bananas. The toast is stuffed with a chunky walnut cream, which provides the main sweetness. It is a well balanced combination; fluffy, not eggy, not overly sweet, crispy outside, and moist inside. I couldn't stop at one bite and the next thing I knew, the plate was wiped clean. I'm not a huge fan of bananas either, but caramelizing makes them oh so good! At brunch spots, I typically go for pancakes, so this was a departure from the norm - and well worth it.

Zazie remains on par with Plow as my favorite brunch spot in SF. The location, back garden patio, popularity with locals, and mouthwatering brunch plates all make it the quintessential neighborhood bistro. To be fair, we'll probably need to visit some other places before coming back. There's just way too many to choose from in this foodie paradise we call home!

Thalis and Kathi Rolls at Kasa…

Indian restaurants are plentiful throughout the Bay Area; they run the gamete from traditional North India curry houses, to South Indian restaurant, and further to chaat spots. Then there’s Kasa in the Castro. Serving kathi rolls (an Indian version of a burrito) and thalis (an Indian version of a sampling plate), Kasa is creating authentic home-style fare in an appealing to the masses fashion; and we’re hooked. The appeal of Kasa is that (1) the food is made fresh to emulate what’s cooked in Indian homes; (2) the services line is a la Chipotle with plates assembled in front of you; (3) capitalizing on progressive pallets of Bay Area foodies; and (4) word of mouth praise via social media networks.

We’ve ordered take out on several occasions, typically for dinner after I’ve taken a day trip to So Cal for work. Recently, we meet some friends for dinner on a chilly summer night in SF. Although it’s close to Castro St, you won’t find any tourist here, only locals. The menu is simple - either select thali or kathi roll. The thali comes with your choice two curries (from a selection of 6 to 8), rice, paratha (flat bread), lentil daal, mint chutney, and a side slaw. For the roll, you choose one of the curries as the stuffing. They come small so order two if you want to make it a meal. There are ample choices for vegetarians and the daily curry specials are almost always vegetarian.

Sheila ordered the thali with karahi paneer and saag paneer. I ordered two kathi rolls – one with karahi paneer, and one with gobi aloo. The fluffy paneer is made fresh at Kasa, not packaged, and you can taste to difference. It breaks apart very easily and is not overly salty like the frozen variety. There hasn’t been a trip to Kasa where we haven’t ordered the karahi paneer. Balance is the first word that comes to mind, the spices are there but there in rhythm with the tomato based sauce rather than overpowering it. Since the paneer is light and airy, all those great spice flavors get infused. This is the karahi paneer by which others should be judged.

The black lentil and kidney bean daal reminds me of what Sheila or my mom would make at home. I won’t even attempt to decipher the Indian spices that have been added, but it just works well. The gobi aloo kathi roll was a pleasant surprise. More parts cauliflower than potato kept this dish from being a carb-fest. There was a distinct taste of cumin and fenugreek within the curry that adds the right amount of kick. The paratha roll itself is made with all-purpose flour and is a bit thicker than a tortilla – sufficient for the amount of curry stuffing added.

However what’s missing in all the dishes is an overabundance of ghee or oil. Because of this, the food tastes healthy and you’d have that heavy feeling in your stomach. We’ll keep going back to Kasa when there’s an urge for Indian take out. So if you don’t get a chance to come by our house for dinner, check out Kasa for the next best thing to home-cooked fare. Note that Kasa is also on Groupons ; we purchased a $40 gift card for $20 and it was totally worth it.

suvir saran's devi in the flatiron district...

A work trip to the NYC meant the opportunity for (1) Sheila to join me on the weekend and (2) another tasting tour through this food Mecca. We'd been watching Top Chef Masters this season and decided on a pre-theater dinner at Suvir Saran's Devi near Union Square Park. The decor is mix of beautifully detailed Indian doors adorning the walls, vibrant red painted walls, and Moroccan inspired light fixtures. We were seated on the Mezzanine level above the main dining hall; being the only couple upstairs meant that the service staff was very attentive.

The menu was North Indian inspired, with a hint to both modern and Chinese influences. Considering the chef's creations during Top Chef Masters, the menu kept to his roots. We opted for the $40 pre-fix menu with appetizer, entree, and dessert. Given the a la carte prices, this was the right choice.

Sheila opted to start with the Spouted Mung and Peanut Chaat (sprouted beans, tomatoes, onions, mint, cilantro, potatoes, tamarind chutney, and mini pappad discs). The presentation was exquisite; like a zenga tower with the papad sandwiched between the other fresh ingredients. As expected the veggies were extremely fresh. However the papad quickly lost its crispiness given the inherent water within the veggies and chutney. Sheila and I agreed that the mung salad we had at Dosa (in SF) was better.

I started with the Manchurian cauliflower (an Indo-Chinese style dish with tomato, garlic, and cayenne pepper). The cauliflower was perfectly cooked as my knife cut right through the florets with ease. There were no other veggies on the plate, just cauliflower. Despite that, we thought this was the best dish of the evening.

The two entrees we ordered were the laukee ke kofte (zucchini and squash dumplings prepared in a tomato onion sauce) and the karahi paneer (Indian cottage cheese cubes with sweet peppers, onions, tomatoes, and fenugreek). Sheila's kofte was rich and creamy, but packed some serious heat. Each dumpling was very moist and despite the heavy handed spices, the zucchini and squash flavors came through well. In hindsight I should have ordered a side of raita because my nose was definitely running! Unlike typical karahi paneers, this preparation included a mix masala infused veggies. Sheila preferred this entree because of the overall taste balance. I for one could not appreciate this for what it was - an elevated paneer dish worthy of praise. Reason is, I've been on paneer overload the past six months and it all tastes the same. Time go on a paneer diet for the next few months.

I would be remise if I didn't mention the naan. Sheila proclaimed it to be the best naan she has ever eaten. Very high praise indeed and I have to agree. Some naans come to the table dense on the edges and brunt crispy in the middle. Devi's naan was fluffy, light, and chewy throughout. So good was the naan that we ordered another piece in lieu of any rice! For dessert, we both ordered the mango cheesecake. The presentation was like a piece of artwork - a cylinder of mango and ricotta atop a cookie base, served with a crescent shaped almond crisp. The cheesecake was fluffy and rich, but not overly sweet; the almond crisp provided the sugar needed. A great finishing touch to our meal.

Service was exceptionally quick; perhaps because we were the first patrons of the evening. It was only a matter of a few minutes between all of our dishes. Having become accustom to sharing our dinners - both of us felt really stuffed at the end of this meal. Needless to say we probably won't be ordering a pre-fix menu any time soon. As for Devi, it was better than the higher end North Indian fare we've had in the Bay Area. However, we wouldn't come back; there are too many restaurants in the NYC still to try.

Mother's Day at Dosa on Fillmore!

This Mother’s Day was special. With my sister and dad in India, my mom came up to SF for the weekend. Sheila’s folks also drove up from San Jose for a family lunch. Instead of going to your typical North Indian curry house. We decided on Dosa on Fillmore.

The concept of elevated South Indian cuisine – dosas, uttapams, and idli/sambar – foods that are typically served at corner stalls. It’s sister location on Valencia is a much smaller venue both this one has an amazing open floor plan with 20+ ft ceiling, beautiful chandeliers, and vivid ethnic prints.

We arrived for an early lunch at 11:45am and were seated in the loft space upstairs. After perusing the menu for a few minutes we decided on several appetizers, entrees, and lassis. Time passed quickly as we all talked about recent trips to India, family happenings, and of course food!

Okay on the food, certainly secondary to spending time with our Moms -

Sweet Lassi – cool and refreshed, but only had one note. I was looking for some cinnamon or saffron to finish off the flavor profile. Mind you I had not trouble drinking to entire glass in a matter of minutes.

Bhel Puri – the best plate on the table. A very good balance on two levels - sweet and savory; then chewy and crunchy. The ingredient list is simple – puffed rice, garbanzo beans, onions, fried chickpea flour (sev), cilantro, mango, tamarind chutney, and mint chutney. The cooked garbanzo beans and mango were a pleasant surprise, not standard for bhel puri. The beans were slightly al dente and the mango slightly under ripe; allowing for neither to get soggy. The amount was perfect to share amongst the five of us. We’d order this again for sure.

Mung Daal Salad – a refreshing cold salad bursting with fresh flavors. It was created with sprouted mung beans, jicama cubes, finely diced tomatoes, chopped red onions, and cilantro-lime vinaigrette. On the surface you wouldn’t think much, but all it took was one bite for the mom’s to give their approval. The rest of the meal was spent trying to decipher all the spices and ingredients in this dish – perhaps a home version will be attempted the next time we visit Cerritos!

Masala Dosa – a crispy Indian crepe filled with a stuffing of potatoes, onions, tomatoes, and peas. It was served with coconut chutney, chilly chutney, and sambar. The dosa was certainly crispy and the sambar piping hot, but they were heavy handed with the salt. It’s likely because Sheila and I have cut down on our sodium intake over the past few years. I have to say that when eaten in tandem with the stuffing, the dosa balanced out well. Garam masala was prevalent; it’s the heat you feel going down to your stomach. I’d go for Udipi Palace’s version instead.

Paneer & Peas Dosa – an Indian crepe stuffed with shredded paneer and peas. It was also served with the same sambars and chutneys. After one bit, it was apparent that the filling was too heavy; an overwhelming heap of paneer. Admittedly the filling was good, but I couldn’t taste the very thin dosa at all. I only got through two-thirds of the dish, so we’ll see of the tastes marry overnight when had as leftovers.

Fresh Fruit Napoleon Uttapam – three mini uttapams sandwiched with cooked apples, pears, shaved coconut, and strawberry/tamarind chutney. It was part of Dosa’s brunch menu and certainly their attempt at Indian pancakes. I felt that the uttapam was too thick, perhaps because my few bites didn’t incorporate the all the toppings. Sheila loved this dish – it was a nice finish to the predominately savory meal. Kinda wish we had ordered this for dessert though.

All in all, it was the company more than the venue or food that made today memorable. We joked, laughed, and spent precious time together. We’d go back to Dosa, but it won’t be the same if not accompanied by our moms.

Raving about Pizzetta 211

There are neighborhood joints and then there's Pizzetta. Located at 211 23rd St between California and Lake, you'd never notice this place existed. That is until you see all the people congregated outside the storefront. Is it a garage sale, maybe a house party? Nope, just one the best tasting pizza in SF, and for that matter, the US.

Pizzetta is unassuming, there are only four tables inside, three tables outside, four stools at the bar, and a kitchen the size of most SF condos. No waiting area, no credit cards, no large parties, no reservations, no substitutes.

After reading through their website, we decided to call ahead on the wait and arrived around 6:45pm. Note that parking in the Richmond can be hard work. Took me about 10 mins, but others 25 mins. The owner, a charismatic gentlemen with a scruffy face and short curly hair took our name down and within 15 mins sat us at the bar. The interior is a combination storage room, dining area, bar, and kitchen. The real joy are the owners and workers - it's a group of four lads who look like either frat brothers from Cal or musicians appearing at Outsidelands. Really nice fellows, one making the pizzas, one tending to the appetizers and drinks, one at the cash til, and one for the front of house. They took care of the many happy clients wearing shirts made by a regular customer with the words "Pizzetta Attitude" and a photo of the owners.

We started with the special appetizer of the day - artichokes with aioli and butter beans with olive tapenade. Simply amazing and not the type of elevated food you'd expect from a small place like this. The artichokes were freshly cooked through without being rubbery, the aioli was not overpowering (only a small amount on the artichokes), the butter beans were tastefully seasoned, and the olive tapenade was pureed down with chives and kumquats for a tasteful mix. I've never had something like this before and would want to steal this recipe for future house parties. At $7, it's the perfect amount to share without getting too full.

The pizza sizes were about 12", so we decided to order our own rather than share. Sheila opted for the Margherita (tomato sauce, mozzerrella, and basil) and I sought the advice of our waiter. He suggested the San Marzano (san marzano tomato sauce, mascarpone, and wild arugula) because of it's balance. It's great to watch the chef create the pizza right in front of us - from pulling the dough, the drizzling the olive oil, to spreading the sauce, to placing the cheese. After about 15 mins in the electric oven, our food was brought over all the while we were entertained by the wait staff.

Sheila's pizza looked fantastic; the owner calling it food porn when I took the below picture. It was well done Margherita with a twist of basil pureed with olive oil rather than fresh. The thin crust was a true flour crust flavor without any seasoning. Sheila loved the fact that the crust was not burnt, which is what tends to happen in coal or wood-fired ovens. The sauce was mildly sweet and the cheese was fresh as can be. Sheila is not one to finish her entree - no problem this time which says enough.

The owner brought out the San Marzano followed by the comment - he (the waiter) fooled you into picked this one, huh? I knew it would be good at that point. The crust was similar to Sheila's; the flour flavor was not masked by anything. My sauce, however, had the kick of chilly flakes, which is what I was looking for. The pizza needed this because I was expecting the mascarpone would overpower this dish on the sweet side - it was not. I loved the richness and subtle tones of this cheese. The arugula (simply tossed in salt, pepper, olive oil) was layed fresh on top - great to pick off and eat on its own. I caned that pizza in no time.

For dessert, we chose a goat cheese tart with candied kumquats - another recommendation of our waiter. The only way to describe it is like a cheesecake - but so much better. The crust had a nice butter flavor, the mildly sweetened goat cheese was much lighter than cheesecake, the kumquats were like a candied circuit provide a nice kick of sweetness.

Pizzetta would definitely be our version of Gialina's if we lived in the Richmond. It has the loyal clientele, personable wait staff, amazing food, and local SF charm. If it weren't so small, we would take all our out of town guest here (to join Papalotes, Slanted Door, & Tartine Bakery). Sheila even wanted to go back the next day! Go to Pizzetta, brave the wait - it's worthy of the rave reviews in the SF Chronicle, Sunset Magazine, and Zagat.